![]() Plus, if ya have a reamer, you can charge all your buddies a case of beer to do theirs.he he he. Now you could always install the bushings and take 'em to a machine shop to have the pins fitted, but some folks live out in the toolies, or just prefer to do their own work. only takes an hour to do both spindles if you have a reamer. Install the retainer pin and new gease zerks and yer done. Lightly grease the pin.then slide it into the spindle, keeping the notch lined up with the hole in the axle. Take the kingpin and install the cupped washer and felt. ![]() Put spindle on axle, with the bearing on the bottom, face the bearing so that the groove is facing down (It won't fill up with water/dirt). ![]() It should slide in with very little effort, but still be tight. Once bushings are reamed, clean out the holes and test fit a kingpin. The pilot of the reamer keeps the cut square. Once the reamer is in, slowly "grind" through the bushing. If the reamer "pilot" won't go in with light taps, ya may need to file or sand some of the bushing by hand. If you don't have a reamer, you can use a small cylinder hone and "creep up" on the kingpin just takes longer. I debur the edges of the bushings and tap in the reamer. Now that the bushings are in, they need reamed to size, as they have "crushed" when pressed in. Then I put the spindle in the vise and "press" the bushing in, making sure the bushing goes in square. Line up the hole in the bushing with the zerk hole and tap in the bushing. Once they are out, I debur the holes and clean the holes up with emory cloth. But if ya get a stubborn one, I like to use a hack saw and cut into it. Use the sockets in a vise as a "press" and crank 'em out. You can also use a bearing/seal driver the correct size and a hammer to tap out the old bushings. It'll work on all Ford bushings up to and including F-1's. Also going to replace the steering arms with rebuilt ones with new balls and replacing the teflon seats. I found this one in a box with a bunch of valve grinding tools and it just happened to be the right size. I am in the process of replacing mine with NOS TRW kingpins and having the bushings honed to size. I use a pair of sockets, one just a hair smaller than the bushing, the other larger so that the bushing fits inside of it. These are early round back spindles, but the procedure is basically the same for any I-beam axle, be it Ford or even a new Semi. The C washer trick is used a lot more than folks will let on for fear of being labled a bodger but seeing as shims are used to set the up and down float it's not as much of a bodge as some like to make out, usually the bearing balls just wear and loose size (hense the play) rarely do they disintergrate like a wheel bearing as there is way less heat involved in thier use.First off.this is pretty basic stuff and probably been covered before, but since I just did a pair last weekend, thought I'd share. How long is a piece of string, i've had lots that just fall out and a few that had to sit in a 90T press overnight before flying out and punching a hole in the wall Just wondered if you guys had any hints tip on replaceing them Iv found a pair on ebay so will do them once theyve arrived Need to be done as failed mot on excessive movement Mfd-18v wrote:How hard are the king pins to replace ?
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